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Person holding a long door handle and rectangular lock case beside an open wooden door with exposed hardware recesses. — Vintage Mortise Lock Service, York Mills
Hands holding a lock cylinder and a ring of keys above a worn workbench with another cylinder and loose keys. — Lock Rekeying, York Mills

Change or rekey · York Mills

Vintage Mortise Lock Service in York Mills

The interior bedroom doors on the second floor have the original mortise latches, and none of them close any more.

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In plain words

Where the door has moved, the lock gets blamed. Solid wood doors in older houses swell in humid weather, shrink in winter and settle on their hinges, and a mortise lock that was set decades ago ends up with its latch and bolt aiming a little below the strike. Part of every vintage lock service is reading how the door hangs, tightening or packing the hinges, and moving or filing the strike so the latch catches and the bolt throws without lifting the handle. Often that alignment work, plus a clean and new springs, is the entire repair, and the customer gets back a door that closes with one hand.

Sound familiar?

The interior bedroom doors on the second floor have the original mortise latches, and none of them close any more. The doors drift open, the small brass turn buttons do nothing, and the keyholes have been empty for as long as anyone can remember.

How the visit goes

Vintage Mortise Lock Service

How the visit goes

Black door with a card-reader lock panel above a lever handle, beside a tray of tools and a parts box. — York Mills
Ceramic dish holding keys on a wooden table beside a leafy vase, with a black door, deadbolt and knob behind. — York Mills
  1. Which keys exist and who has them

    The locksmith asks to see every key that goes with the door: the one that works, the ones that used to, and the bag of loose bit keys that came with the house. A worn original is still the most useful pattern for a new key, and a bent one explains why the lock has become temperamental. For a cylinder lock, a lost or stolen key is a reason to rekey while the case is out, and a key that only a former occupant holds is worth retiring. The count of keys wanted afterwards is settled now too, so the spares are cut while the lock is on the bench rather than on a return visit.

  2. Springs, levers and followers

    Springs are the usual culprits and the easiest fix. Broken coil and flat springs are matched from stock by length, wire gauge and shape, and fitted so the latch snaps out and the knob returns to level. A worn or cracked lever is matched from a donor case where one exists; where it does not, a replacement is filed from stock to the original's profile, which is slow, careful bench work rather than magic. A rounded hub is replaced or bushed. When every part moves as it should, the case is closed and cycled by hand with the cover on until the action is smooth and even in both directions.

  3. Looking after the finish

    The brass or bronze knobs and escutcheons on an old door have earned their patina, left alone unless you ask otherwise. Paint cleaned from a faceplate or strike leaves the bare metal as found, not polished bright. If you would rather see them shine, check the finish first: unlacquered brass takes a gentle polish well, kept off the keyhole and spindle; polishing a lacquered piece can scratch through it and start tarnish underneath. Lacquered reproduction parts resist tarnishing rather than darken to match; an unlacquered reproduction is built to age and blend in over a season or two. A light wipe when dusting is all the upkeep the trim needs; wet cleaners find their way into the case.

Vintage Mortise Lock Service

In the van

  • Warding files

  • Light lock oil

  • Hardwood dowel and wood glue

  • Hub followers and lever packs

  • Latch and hub springs

Brass pull handle on a long rectangular plate with a keyhole, mounted on a black paneled door beside a white frame. — York Mills

Vintage Mortise Lock Service

What affects the quote

  1. Paint and seized parts

    Hardware buried under decades of paint takes time to free and clean without damage. A faceplate, strike and thumb-turn that have to be stripped back add to the visit and are noted in the quote.

  2. Parts that must be ordered

    A reproduction case or an unusual cylinder size may have to be ordered to measurement, which means a second visit to fit it. The quote separates the first visit from the return.

  3. What is actually broken inside

    A clean and new springs is the lightest job. A worn hub, a cracked lever or a part that has to be fabricated to match the original adds bench time, and the assessment names which applies before any of it starts.

What to have ready

  • What does the knob do when you turn it: return, sag, or not come back?
  • How many keys do you have, and do any of them work?
  • Is the trouble worse with the door closed than with it open?
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Vintage Mortise Lock Service: questions

Questions
What if the case is too worn to repair?

Then a replacement case goes into the existing pocket. Reproduction mortise cases are made in the common vintage sizes and backsets, and a modern mortise case with a cylinder fits many old pockets with minor trimming. The locksmith measures the case height, depth, backset and trim spacing before ordering, aiming for the new case to drop in with the original knobs and plates going back on, though a small pocket trim or fixing change is sometimes needed. Cutting the door for a different kind of lock is the last choice.

What information helps before you come out?

Whether the door takes a skeleton-style bit key or a flat key in a round cylinder, roughly when the house was built, what the knob and bolt are doing, and whether the trouble is worse with the door closed. A photo of the faceplate in the door edge and one of the keyhole side is worth a great deal. Mention how many doors are involved and how many keys you would like afterwards.

How should I look after the lock once it is serviced?

A drop of the right lock oil into the latch and bolt once a year is plenty. If the lock has a pin-tumbler cylinder, use whatever lubricant that cylinder's maker specifies, since some take a dry graphite or PTFE product and others a specified liquid one. Try the latch and deadbolt each spring and fall; if the bolt starts to scrape, the strike wants a small adjustment before anything is strained. Keep bit keys out of a pocket where they bend.

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